Awards & Reviews
By Joanne Dronfield and J.L. Walsh
It was the appetizer sampler that had us rethinking our dining strategy at Amigos. OK, there we were, face to face (or mouth to chalupa, more precisely) with one of the most bountiful starter caches we'd encountered at a Mexican restaurant. Two more courses were on the way; but we were hungry and the spread before us was looking mighty good. Perhaps the food would be”just OK;" we'd nibble a bit and fend off filling our tummies before the all-important entrees arrived. No such luck. This was seriously good Mexican food. Amigos Grill and Cantina, difficult to miss in its location off the elbow of Highway 12, has been a Sonoma Valley favorite for nearly a decade, offering traditional recipes from the Sonoran region of Mexico (just below Arizona), as well as house specialties and other bean-tortilla-cheese inspired creations. And our appetizer sampler was definitely the right introduction to Amigos world of fine Mexican cuisine. It’s hard to go wrong with jalitos (cream cheese stuffed jalapenos) as long as they’re fresh peppers, and these melted perfectly in our mouths--fried just lightly enough to retain the bulk of jalapeno flavor. The plate featured four Inferno Wings, boasted tangy seasoning that, we were relieved, didn't turn our mouths into the ”infernos” promised, but gave our taste—buds a treat nonetheless. The centerpiece of the platter was a mound of Amigos’ nachos, featuring refried beans, cheese, guacamole; sour cream, salsa and jalapenos--and these could have been an entrée unto themselves. Nachos are often hit and miss depending on the restaurant, but Amigos’ fall under the "hit" crisp but light (who needs to fill up on hard shell tortilla?) and the order is served with a balanced spread of flavors (that way you're not running out of guacamole before you’ve even tasted a chip topped with cheese, for instance.) As a testament to the platter, the quesadillas and taquitos were almost an afterthought to their counterparts, but only because they’re staples of Mexican appetizer plates, not because we didn't wolf them down with any less zeal. A sampler platter came with enough food to more than satisfy two adults; we ended up packaging up more than half of ours to take home. At only $12.95, this could be one of the best foods-for-your- money deals in Sonoma. But perhaps our enthusiasm over a simple starter platter was the drinks speaking for us. Probably more than most other Sonoma Valley Mexican eateries, Amigos is known for its margaritas from both a taste and a bang for-your-buck standpoint. Aside from its long as your-arm set menu of margaritas, Amigos often offers seasonal drink specials. From the summer selections, we sampled Veronica’s Acapulco Blue margarita ($8.50), which features Herradura tequila with blue Curacao and proved a refreshing (and quite pleasing to the eye we might add) cocktail on a warm evening. Of course we also had to take a stab at Amigos signature drink, the Cadillac margarita, an amazing mix of Cuervo 1800, Cointreau, Grand Marnier and sweet and sour. And |let's just say it was a good thing one of us had volunteered to be the designated driver for the evening. Fortunately for our taste—buds, neither of us lacked the sobriety to appreciate our impressive entrees. Based on the recommendation of our server; our first order was beef fajitas ($15), which featured tri-tip steak, with a blend of onions, bell peppers sizzling in Amigos' "world famous” marinade. While we question whether the reputation of Amigos' marinade has yet reached the Asian subcontinent, we can attest to the tangy benefit it lent to our meal. For good or bad (depending on how close you got to either of us the following day), we went for the garlic version of the fajitas, which offers a generous supply of fresh garlic in each fajita mix a move that we recommend to all but Dracula. The beef meanwhile, was tender and in generous supply, and the order is accompanied by no small amounts of sour cream, cheddar and jack cheese, Iettuce, jalapenos, brown and black beans and choice of tortillas (we went with flour). For our second entrée, we wanted to test the selection of House Specialties, from which we sampled Camarones Ajillo, a succulent plate of prawns served in a white-wine butter sauce. The prawns were sautéed in garlic butter, giving them a subtle richness that was only magnified by the delicious white-wine sauce. This was perhaps the standout dish from what was already a memorable meal. As satisfied as our appetites were at this point, we managed
To make room for Amigos' signature flan, light custard rendered delectable through its mix of Grand Marnier and brandy. At this point, neither of us could eat another and we still had a doggy bag big enough to make for a nice-sized lunch for two the following .day. Thus we said adios to Amigos for the night. It won't be long before we're making our next hello, we promise you that.
Daedalus Howell
October 29, 2005
Yes, I too was once naïve enough to think that “Amigos” was simply Spanish for “friends.” Just off the elbow of Highway 12, I learned that the word is a local idiom for “mass quantities of amazing Mexican food awaiting your leisurely consumption – eat now!”
Family-owned and operated Amigos Grill and Cantina has been a Sonoma favorite since opening nearly nine years ago. It’s seemingly endless menu is the result of dozens of traditional recipes hailing from the Sonoran region of Mexico, which have been refined through generations of family cooking until arriving, happily, in the capable hands of Chef Rudy Guiterrez.
The flavorful, emerald-colored guacamole proved a fitting start to the evening as did the battered and fried jalapenos, black bean taquitos, chalupas, jalitos (jalapeño peppers breaded and stuffed with cream cheese and lightly fried) and cheese quesadillas. Please note, this is only a brisk survey of Amigos copious menu – listing every dish would drain the newspaper’s supply of ink.
My companion particularly enjoyed the ceviche which came brimming with fresh cod, bay shrimp, calamari and pico de gallo, marinated in lime juice and served atop a crisp tortilla made for a hearty starter. If variety is the spice of life, Amigos’ firey, spicy arbol sauce is attempting to be immortal. Served with the ceviche, the sauce is named for the chili that is its base and completed with a variety of spices from the secret family recipe book, though it’s safe to say there are notes of onion and cilantro stoking the sauce’s inferno (an inquiry made to the chef was met with no small order of circumspection).
The chili relleno, one of the many house specialties, is a revelation of grande proportions. Contrary to popular treatments of the traditional dish wherein the chili is battered and fried, Amigos’ instead grills the battered and roasted pasilla chili and then drenches it in a creamy sauce.
Likewise the tri-tip steak fajitas, one of several variations on the theme that could include anything from prawns, chicken, pork and a vegetarian option, are served sizzling bedecked by both whole pinto and black beans, a raft of other Mexican accouterments (from jalapenos to pico de gallo) and one’s choice of warm corn or flour tortillas. Low-carb tortillas are also available for those mindful of such things, though I think the thought should be repressed – indulgence should be the rule while at Amigos.Meanwhile, the chicken mole is a study in subtlety. The signature sauce had a smooth, velvety quality that was simultaneously piquant and understated. I’ve been doing reconnaissance on mole sauces for the past several months and have found many to be too aggressive, rather like, as a friend recently put it “a stiletto heel to the tongue.” Amigos’ mole sauce, however, is quite like being kissed by a former lover – it’s familiar, spices things up and you immediately want to tell your best friend about it.
That said, if you’re inclined to gossip, I highly recommend doing it over one of Amigos’ lauded margaritas. The Cadillac Margarita, a decadent mix of Cuervo 1800 tequila, Cointreau, Grand Mariner and sweet and sour mix, will give you an instant air of south of the border-style sophistication, though upon finishing it, you may not be able to say the word. I certainly couldn’t, but then an evening at Amigos isn’t about talking so much as eating and thanks to their generous servings you will be doing a lot of that.
The waitstaff and servers, leave one wanting for nothing. They are quick, attentive and extremely friendly. On the occasion of our visit, there was an impromptu birthday party occurring a few tables away. Tipped off, the staff assembled into a chorus and sang “Happy Birthday” which met the flash of a Polaroid camera at the crescendo. A lot of restaurants will sing “Happy Birthday” to you, but taking your picture? Now, that’s just cool.
The dessert menu teems with delectable notions, in fact, too many to be comprehended in a single thought. Rather than tax my enfeeble mind, which was still cruising from the Cadillac Margarita, I went the traditional route and enjoyed a light and airy flan splashed with Grand Mariner. It had a wonderfully smooth consistency was the perfect finish to a night of gustatory debauchery.